Pattern instructions frequently refer to parts of the needle, including the hook, latch, shank (sometimes called "stem"), and butt. The LK 150 is unique in that there is a plastic cap covering the butt, called a "needle roller"; it acts like a bearing, allowing easier movement of the carriage across the bed. Most patterns will simply state to push on the needle butts, and do not refer to the rollers.
On each end of the needle bed (frequently called simply "bed") there is a vertical row of letters. These are the needle positions. This means that needles in a horizontal line with the letter A are in position A; those in line with the letter B are in position B; those in line with the letter C are in position C, and those in line with the letter D are in position D.
Each position provides a different function for the needles. Those in position A do not knit, no matter how the carriage is set. This is most frequently called “out of work”, and is sometimes abbreviated OWP (out of work position). Needles in position C will knit Stockinette or pattern stitches, depending on how the carriage is set. This is called "work position" and is usually abbreviated WP. Needles in position D will knit Stockinette only. This is called "upper work position" and is abbreviated UWP. Needles in position D do not knit when the Russel Levers are set at l (backwards), but do knit when they are set at ll. This is "hold position" and is abbreviated HP.
To set the tension, turn the Stitch Dial until the desired number lines up with the dot. There is also a setting halfway between each number on the Stitch Dial, shown as little dots between the numbers. In a pattern, these are usually called "1/2". So if the pattern says "T4 1/2" it means to set the Stitch Dial so that the dot between number 4 and number 5 lines up with the large dot on the carriage. This might also be written as "4.5", or "4 and 1 click".
It is necessary to adjust the Tension Dial on the Auto Tension unit so that it matches the number on the Stitch Dial as closely as possible. The illustration on page 10 in the manual is confusing; there are two different Auto Tension units that fit this machine, and I have both. One has settings only for the odd numbers (1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13); the other is numbered consecutively from 1-7. I suspect that the one which has numbers 1-7 was really manufactured for the LK 140, the hobby knitter which was replaced by the LK 150. Parts are interchangeable between these machines; the main difference being that the LK 140 has 140 needles, and the LK 150 has 150.
For this lesson, we will presume that your Auto Tension has the odd number scale (1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13). If the Stitch Dial is set at an even number, try setting the Tension Dial to the closest lower odd number and knit a swatch, then try the higher number to see which you prefer. Knitted fabric often shrinks a little when washed the first time, so when working with completely unfamiliar yarn it is a good idea to try several swatches, wash and dry them, then see which you like best.
If knitting with just one yarn, always place it in feeder #1 (the front slot). When plating, place the main yarn (the yarn you want to be seen on the "public" side of the fabric) in feeder #1, and the plating or "lining" yarn in feeder #2. This seems backwards, but the machine really knows how to sort it out. Try this on a sample to see for yourself.
The Right Side Lever works when the carriage moves toward the right. Left Side Lever works when the carriage moves toward the left.
On the back of the carriage is a little rectangle that juts out the rear edge; it connects with the tripper on the row counter every time the carriage goes across the bed in front of the row counter. This causes the row count to advance automatically by 1 number for every pass of the carriage.
Irene Woods
P.O. Box 637
Wickenburg, AZ 85358
(928) 684-2969
© 1997-2002 by Irene Woods
Email: irenewoods@clearwater.net