Ribbing. Turn garment upside down and rehang the main color loops from the waste yarn section. Knit the required number of rows for ribbing. Drop and relatch every other stitch, forming K1, P1 ribbing. Measure yarn at least 3 times the width of the working needles and clip at this point, leaving a long tail. This will be used for finishing later. Depending on the yarn, it sometimes can take up to 4 times the width of the needles, so practice this technique on a swatch to be sure, or just cut a little extra. These instructions presume that ribbing is an even number of stitches, and that there are 2 purl (not relatched) stitches on the right side of the bed.

Bring the relatched stitches (knit stitches as they face you while fabric is on the machine) all the way forward to position D.

Bring the relatched stitches (knit stitches as they face you while fabric is on the machine) all the way forward to position D. Bring the Side Levers on the carriage (the back levers on the side edges) forward to the dot position. Thread carriage with strongly contrasting waste yarn. Knit 1 row. Only the knit stitches should have knitted. The purl stitches should each have a float of yarn passing under them. Move the Side Levers back to the triangle position and knit 7 rows waste yarn. Clip yarn, take carriage across empty, and drop fabric off the machine.

Thread main color yarn tail into a tapestry needle. Hold the fabric with the loops from the first row of waste yarn toward you, and fold the waste yarn back. You should see two main color loops, then 1 contrast, 1 main color alternating across the fold. These are all purl stitches, or the ones that you did not reform. The knit stitches lie forward and down, held somewhat separated by the loops formed by knitting the first row of waste yarn. Pass the threaded tapestry needle from front to back through the first main color purl stitch. Bring the yarn back to the front and pass the needle from front to back through the second main color purl stitch.

Go back to the first stitch and pass the needle through it from back to front. Pass the needle through the first knit stitch from back to front.

Go back to the second purl stitch and pass the needle through it from back to front, then pass the needle from front to back through the third purl stitch. Bring the yarn back to the front and pass it from front to back through the first knit stitch, then from back to front through the second knit stitch. Go back to the last purl stitch worked and pass the needle through it from back to front, then pass the needle from front to back through the third purl stitch. Bring the yarn back to the front and pass it from front to back through the last knit stitch worked , then from back to front through the next knit stitch.

Repeat this all the way across. Every stitch is worked twice, and always go back one stitch when going through the purl stitch. You will always be going into the last stitch you used in the previous step. When you get to the last stitch, remember to take the yarn through it twice, too to secure it.

Please try this technique on a swatch until you are comfortable with it, since the long tail of yarn required can be a little hard to manage, especially when binding off a garment sized section of ribbing.