21. At lower edge of pattern, square a line across to the right, a little longer than half the sleeve width at top. Measure half the top sleeve width (8 3/4") and place a dot on this line.
22. Measure straight up along center line the length of the sleeve, excluding cuff length (15 1/2"), and place a dot.
23. Square a line from point 22 across to the right. Measure half the lower sleeve width (5 5/8") and place a dot.
24. Measure straight up from point 21 the same amount as width of armhole bindoff (2") and place a dot Connect point 24 up to point 23 for sleeve side seam. Connect point 24 straight down to point 21 for underarm bindoff seam.
25. Cuff. Just above sleeve pattern, place a mark on centerline for cuff. Square a line out to the right for half the cuff width (3 3/4") and place a dot.
26. Measure straight up from point 25 on the center line the depth of the cuff (3") and mark.
27. Square a line to the right from point 26 to the same length as line 25. Place a dot. Mark straight down to point 25.
This completes the basic sweater pattern. If using a pattern with a shaped sleeve cap, it is still usually possible to knit the sleeve from the top down. One alteration may be necessary, however. A fairly short cap is necessary, or it will not be possible to short row (partial knit) the cap shaping. 2 1/2 - 3" is usually enough depth for the average adult garment, and up to 3 1/2 - 4" for very large sizes. If the original cap is more than this amount, make a slightly flattened out side cap-shaping line when drawing it onto Contour paper.
I don't even bother redrafting the cap shaping any more. Just pick up all the stitches indicated at the armhole line. Knit 1 row over all stitches, then clip yarn. Keep about 20% of the stitches in work pos at center of cap, and place all others into hold on both sides. Work back in 3 stitches each side twice, then 2 stitches at a time until down to the armhole bind off amount. Return these all at once, every other row. At this point, I set the Knit Contour pattern to the armhole line, then follow the outline down to the cuff. If a longer sleeve cap is desired, return only 1 stitch at a time on each side for a few rows just before the armhole bind off stitches.
For a sleeve knitted from the bottom up, unless the cuff is the same width as the lower edge of the sleeve, it is best to begin just above the ribbing with scrap yarn and ravel cord. Knit the sleeve, following the outline throughout. When the sleeve is completed, rehang the lower edge, picking up the main color loops from the scrap yarn section, doubling up stitches as necessary so that lower edge fits on the number of stitches needed for cuff. Work cuff, following outline, and bind off.
All alterations should be included in the final Knit Contour pattern. I recommend that you draw the pattern onto the paper with pencil, make any changes desired, then go over the final outline with pen. Erase all pencil marks. A bottle of white-out, such as that used for covering up typing mistakes, will cover up any mistakes made with the pen. Office supply stores carry a special formula for pen and ink; it won't bleed through this as it sometimes does with the regular typing kind.
Return to Step 3, Drawing the Front
Knit Contour Lesson Index
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