 
|
1. Split raglan armhole seam with a seam ripper, beginning approximately 2" above base of armhole on back side. Open armhole seam stitching down to base of armhole, then continue up front seam until approximately 4" above base of armhole. Repeat for other armhole.
|
|
2. Spread sweatshirt out on table, front of garment facing up. Smooth out any wrinkles. Using a yardstick, measure and mark a line across chest, 2" above base of armholes.
|
|
3. Measure width of the knit insert. We will use a 6" band for this example. Deduct two seam allowances. (2 x 3/8).
6" - 3/4" = 5 1/4". This is the width of the fabric "window" which must be removed from the sweatshirt. Measure down 5 1/4" and mark a line parallel to the first line across chest.
|
|
4. Hold garment firmly to prevent slipping. Cut a slash, where the side seam would be, along vertical fold below armhole, until at least 3" below bottom chalk line across garment; repeat for other side.
|
|
5. Cut across FRONT of garment only, on both top and bottom chalk lines, completely removing a section of sweatshirt. Divide top and bottom edges of sweatshirt chest openings to find centers'; mark with vertical chalk lines.
|
|
6. Find vertical center of knitted insert; mark both top and bottom edges.
|
|
7. With right sides together, pin top edge of shirt opening to top of knit panel, matching center points. Knit band will extend past sides of garment. This extra width will be cut off later. Stitch seam, using 3/8" seam allowance. If using a serger, let blade just skim fabric. If using a zigzag sewing machine, sew first seam with a very narrow zigzag; then use a wide stitch and medium wide length to overcast edges, having needle go barely over the edge of the fabric.
|
|
Repeat for bottom panel seam.
|
|
8. Turn sweatshirt right side out. Smooth seam allowances toward shirt and away from panel. topstitch 1/8" from seamline through all thicknesses, using a narrow, medium length zigzag stitch.
|
|
9. Turn sweatshirt wrong side out. Place face downwards on table with shirt back on top. Smooth out wrinkles and straighten grainline of garment. The insert extends out past sides of shirt. Trim the extra insert material away from the side seam, so that front is the same shape as back. Do not trim the armhole area yet.
|
|
10. Side seams. There will probably be excess band material at the raglan edge in front; ignore it for now. Working from bottom of shirt, smooth any excess fabric evenly up toward the armhole edge. Pin sides together. Beginning at armhole, stitch downwards toward waist, using a 3/8" seam allowance until about 2" below end of slashed side seam, then taper gradually outwards until only 2 or 3 threads remain in seam allowance at waistband. Repeat for other side seam.
|
|
11. Turn garment wrong side out. Restitch the sleeve seam, backstitching at armhole edge to prevent pulling. Trim away excess insert fabric from front armhole, using back raglan shaping as a guide. Pin sleeve to body along lower raglan armhole. Sometimes the fleece has stretched in this area, and it may be necessary to ease the body to the sleeve. Begin stitching from back side or raglan, about 2” above split. Start on original stitching line, tapering to a wider 3/8” seam allowance at base of armhole, then gradually tapering back to original stitching line above front insert. Repeat for other armhole. Check to be sure entire new stitching line is secure and that there are no holes or skipped places. The area at the underarm where all seams meet is subject to quite a bit of stress, and it needs a full 3/8” seam allowance to prevent the seam from pulling out.
|
Next