RC000. K even to RC 60 (72-82-94-102-110). Change to K1, P1 ribbing. T 5/5. K even 16 rows. T 9/9. RC 76 (88-98-110-118-126). K 1 row and clip yarn. BO by pulling 2nd st through 1st, 3rd through 2nd, 4th through 3rd, etc. Pull yarn tail through last st to fasten off.
RC 000. K even to RC 60 (72-82-94-102-110). Change to K1, P1 ribbing. T 5/5. K even 16 rows. T 9/9. RC 76 (88-98-110-118-126). K 1 row and clip yarn. BO by pulling 2nd st through 1st, 3rd through 2nd, 4th through 3rd, etc. Pull yarn tail through last st to fasten off.
Make another front, reversing the shaping.
CO 2 sts at shoulder. Inc at armhole, EOR, when carriage is on L side. AT THE SAME TIME, SHAPE FRONT NECK, AS FOLLOWS. Begin after RC 002, COR. Inc 1 st EOR 5 (5-5-6-6-6)x, 2 sts EOR 2x. CO 4 sts for base of neckline. This completes front neck shaping. Work even at R edge while completing rest of front same as instructions above.
RC 000. K 9 rows even. Dec 1 st both sides on this and every following 9th row a total of 9 (10-12-14-15-16)x. 54 (56-56-60-66-72) sts remain. K even to RC 82 (100-116-132-138-148) and remove on WY. Rehang on 47 (49-49-51-53-55) needles, decreasing 7 (7-7-9-13-17) sts evenly by placing 2 sts on a needle for each dec. K 2 rows. Change to K1, P1 ribbing. RC 000. T 5/5. K even 16 rows. T 9/9. K 1 row and clip yarn. BO by pulling 2nd st through 1st, 3rd through 2nd, 4th through 3rd, etc. Pull yarn tail through last st to fasten off. Make other sleeve the same.
Join sleeve to back. Lay back and one sleeve side by side on a table, raglan edges adjoining. Thread tapestry needle with matching yarn. Overcast raglans together through the loops on the edges. I prefer to hold the back and sleeve, P sides together, and whip stitch together through the loops, but many people find it easier to work with the pieces flat on the table so the corresponding loops are easily visible. Use whichever method is more comfortable for you. Join Fronts to corresponding sleeve, using same method as for Back.
Ravel the center st all the way back to the CO edge. Insert latch tool into this "run", two bars up from the bottom; twist down and around to form a loop on the latch tool. Slide this loop back behind the latch. *Catch next two bars, pull them through the loop already on the latch tool, then slide this new loop down behind the latch. Repeat from * to top. Latching the center in this manner causes the fabric to fold on itself, and makes a permanent crease. Fold the WY down over to the outside of the band, exposing the little bumps of MC along top edge. Using matching yarn in a tapestry needle, whip stitch top edge closed through the bumps. Make other band the same, evenly spacing 6 (6-6-7-7-7) 3-st buttonholes in both sides of the band. If you are not comfortable making buttonholes, try long prong snaps, or use the sew on kind with a real button sewn at the corresponding points on the outside.
This garment is very attractive when bands of Fairisle are placed just above the bottom bands and sleeve cuffs. Less than an ounce of each color will usually be plenty, so this is a good place to use up odds and ends you have left over.
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